Ladiesman147's Weblog

Another web about IR photography

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:28:37 +0000

1. www.myinfrared.com (infrared photo gallery)
2. http://photonotes.org/articles/ir-myths/
3. www.lifepixel.com
4. http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo94.php3

Color Infrared Photography (Film)

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:26:55 +0000

Color infrared film is not as popular as black and white for pictorial use, but it does have its place. Color infrared film is sometimes referred to as false color. This is because this film is designed to differentiate between colors rather than reproduce them accurately.

Kodak is the primary manufacturer of color infrared film. As a matter of fact, they make three films. One type is made for the movie industry. It is the same emulsion as the film you would buy at your high-end camera store, but it in bulk lengths and modified to work in motion picture cameras. This film mostly used for special effects. Another variety is designed for aerial photography and is available in two versions. Then there is Ektachrome Infrared. This is the film most commonly used by photographers and is the film that we’ll concentrate on in this article.

Kodak Ektachrome Professional Infrared EIR Film is a fine grain film that can be developed in Process E-6 or AR-5. The AR-5 process produces a more accurate infrared rendition while the E-6 process produces more color saturation and higher contrast. The sensitivity range spans 380 to 900 nanometers (near ultraviolet to infrared). Because this film’s sensitivity extends to the infrared spectrum, you want to follow the same precautions as with the Kodak High-Speed Infrared for loading and unloading. In other words, complete darkness. Also follow the same precautions in selecting or preparing the camera you are going to use.

Film speed settings for EIR will vary depending on your light source and if you’ll be developing in E-6 or AR-5. See the chart below. This film is a typical slide film. By that I mean that the exposure latitude is very narrow, +/- ½ a stop. So be sure to bracket.

The recommended filter for use with this film is a deep yellow. When using this filter and a daylight light source, the recommended ISO for E-6 process is 200, and for Process AR-5 use ISO 100. Orange filters will also work well with EIR. A polarizing filter can be used to help darken blue skies. Just be careful stacking glass filters with wide angle lenses as this may cause vignetting. You may want to limit filter stacking to longer focal length lenses to avoid this problem.

With this film, green foliage that is alive and healthy will appear red in your photos. Adding color-compensating filters can help you control color shifts to get close to a desired look. See the chart below.

Color Balance Shift
From	to	More	Color Compensating Filter

Green		Magenta	Cyan
Yellow		Blue	Cyan
Cyan		Red	Blue
Blue		Yellow	Magenta

One advantage of this film over the black & white IR films is no focus adjustment is needed. You can focus visually or use autofocus with no problem.

A Unique Look
Images produced with color infrared film have a unique look that can be used to create dramatic images. Once you understand how the film interprets colors and how you can control it with color filters you can make it work for you creatively. It’s not likely you’ll use this film all the time, but it could well become one that you come back when you’re looking for something a little different.

Kodak Ektachrome Infrared with red filter

Maco IR 820C with #87 opaque filter

Fuji Provia 100F with yellow filter

10 easy steps to shooting IR with Film

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:25:39 +0000

Buy a roll of infrared film as it yields cooler results (usually a glowy, dreamy effect) than the other kinds of black and white IR film. You’ll probably need to go to a professional camera shop or photo lab, as most consumer outfits won’t carry the stuff or even know what it is.
Load the film into your camera in total darkness or as near to it as you can. Do not open the plastic film canister unless you are in total darkness! Be particularly careful not to stick your finger through the camera’s shutter curtain when you’re working in the dark. If you’re outside during the day and can’t find a dark place try going to a shady spot and covering the camera with a leather jacket.
If it’s sunny, set the ISO setting on your camera to 200. If it’s less sunny try setting your camera to ISO 400, but try to shoot under sunnier conditions – the photos will look better as there’s more IR energy than if it’s cloudy. These settings have worked perfectly for me on the three EOS cameras I’ve tried with HIE film – they may require some experimenting on your part if your camera meters light differently.
Stick a red filter on your camera lens. (Wratten red 25, Tamron R2, Hoya 25A, etc.) If you don’t do this you’ll lose a lot of the unique IR look and you’ll end up with a grainy regular black and white photo with glowing highlights. Light-opaque filters which pass IR energy can be used for remarkable IR photos, but are much harder to meter and focus for. I recommend starting with a red filter and moving to an IR filter with experience.
Focus normally. Do not adjust focus for IR, since the red filter lets in a lot of normal light. You only need IR focus compensation if you are using an IR filter that blocks all or most visible light or if you are doing macro (closeup) work, particularly with a large lens aperture.
The picture will hopefully look okay using the camera’s lightmeter. But if there’s a lot of IR energy bouncing around then the camera’s meter will be thrown, so for insurance try shooting one photo at the camera’s recommended exposure settings, then bracket – shoot another photo at 1 stop over the camera’s setting and 1 stop under. If your camera has auto exposure bracketing the easiest way to do this is to set AEB or BKT on your camera to 1 stop.
Take the completed roll out of your camera in total darkness as before. I’d recommend taping the film canister lid shut as a reminder.
Take the roll to a professional lab that specializes in black and white photography, having checked first that they know what to do with infrared film and that it’s something they handle regularly. Get ’em to process and print your film. (okay, so people with their own darkrooms will think this step is cheating since it hands one of the most trouble-prone aspects of IR photography – processing – to someone else. Well, that’s true. But I don’t have my own darkroom and don’t want to spend the money to try and make one.)
Choose the best prints (usually only one shot of the three will really turn out well) and have custom hand-printed enlargements made. Or print up some enlargements yourself if you have access to a darkroom or a rental darkroom facility. Machine-printed black and white prints tend not to be very good.
Show off the photos and bask in the praise and admiration of your friends.

Source : Photonotes.org

Infrared Photography (part III)

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:24:27 +0000

Color Infrared Digital

Digital camera sensors are inherently sensitive to infrared light, which would interfere with the normal photography by confusing the autofocus calculations or softening the image (because infrared light is focused differently than visible light), or oversaturating the red channel. Also, some clothing is transparent in the infrared, leading to unintended (at least to the manufacturer) uses of video cameras.Thus, to improve image quality and protect privacy, many digital cameras employ infrared blockers. Depending on your subject matter, infrared photography may not be practical with these cameras because the exposure times become overly long, often in the range of 30 seconds, creating noise and motion blur in the final image. However, for some subject matter the long exposure does not matter or the motion blur effects actually add to the image. Some lenses will also show a ‘hot spot’ in the centre of the image as their coatings are optimised for visible light and not for IR.

An alternative method of digital SLR infrared photography is to remove the infrared blocker in front of the CCD and replace it with a filter that removes visible light. This filter is behind the mirror, so the camera can be used normally – handheld, normal shutter speeds, normal composition through the viewfinder, and focus, all work like a normal camera. Metering works but is not always accurate because of the difference between visible and infrared reflection.When the IR blocker is removed, many lenses which did display a hotspot cease to do so, and become perfectly usable for infrared photography. Additionally, because the red, green and blue micro-filters remain and have transmissions not only in their respective color but also in the infrared, enhanced infrared color may be recorded.

Since the Bayer filters in most digital cameras absorb a significant fraction of the infrared light, these cameras are sometimes not very sensitive as infrared cameras and can sometimes produce false colors in the images. An alternative approach is to use a Foveon X3 sensor, which does not have absorptive filters on it; the Sigma SD10 DSLR has a removable IR blocking filter and dust protector, which can be simply omitted or replaced by a deep red or complete visible light blocking filter. The Sigma SD14 has an IR/UV blocking filter that can be removed/installed without tools. The result is a very sensitive digital IR camera.

Several Sony cameras have the so-called Night Shot facility, which physically moves the blocking filter away from the light path, which makes the cameras very sensitive to infrared light. Soon after its development, this facility was ‘restricted’ by Sony to make it difficult for people to take photos that saw through clothing. To do this the iris is opened fully and exposure duration is limited to long times of more than 1/30 second or so. It is possible to shoot infrared but neutral density filters must be used to reduce the camera’s sensitivity and the long exposure times mean that care must be taken to avoid camera-shake artefacts.

Fuji have produced digital cameras for use in forensic criminology and medicine which have no infrared blocking filter. The first camera, designated the S3 PRO UVIR, also had extended ultraviolet FujiFilm introduced a new version of this camera, based on the Nikon D200/ FujiFilm S5 called the IS Pro, also able to take Nikon lenses. Fuji had earlier introduced a non-SLR infrared camera, the IS-1, a modified version of the FujiFilm FinePix S9100. Unlike the S3 PRO UVIR, the IS-1 does not offer UV sensitivity. sensitivity (digital sensors are usually less sensitive to UV than to IR). Optimum UV sensitivity requires special lenses, but ordinary lenses usually work well for IR. In 2007,

Satellite sensors and thermographic cameras are sensitive to longer wavelengths of infrared, and use a variety of technologies which may not resemble common camera or filter designs. In particular, they often require cooling, since at these wavelengths, and room temperature, all objects (including the camera body, the optics, and the detector itself) are glowing all the time (see thermal radiation).

Phase One digital camera backs can be ordered in an infrared modified form. The P45+ IR model is 39 megapixels and captures in 16 bit allowing for more highlight and shadow detail. Infrared Photography taken with this back rivals the quality of 8×10 infrared film.

Infrared Photography (part II)

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:21:42 +0000

Color Infrared Film

Color infrared transparency films have three sensitized layers that, because of the way the dyes are coupled to these layers, reproduce infrared as red, red as green, and green as blue. All three layers are sensitive to blue so the film must be used with a -blue (i.e., yellow) filter. The health of foliage can be determined from the relative strengths of green and infrared light reflected; this shows in color infrared as a shift from red (healthy) towards magenta (unhealthy). Early color infrared films were developed in the older E-4 process, but Kodak later manufactured a color transparency film that could be developed in standard E-6 chemistry, although more accurate results were obtained by developing using the AR-5 process. In general, color infrared does not need to be loaded in total darkness (despite what it said on the can), or refocused to the infrared index mark on the lens.

In 2007 Kodak announced that production of the 35mm version of their color infrared film (Ektachrome Professional Infrared/EIR) would cease as there was insufficient demand. It is assumed that the 70mm Aerographic format will continue.

Example : Color Infrared

There is no currently available digital camera that will produce the same results as Kodak color infrared film although the equivalent images can be produced by either careful filtering with a UV/IR filter such as a U-300, 18A or BG-3. Or created by taking two exposures, one infrared and the other full-color, and combining in post-production.

Recently, color digital infrared, as part of full spectrum photography is gaining popularity. The ease of creating a softly colored photo with infrared characteristics has found interest among hobbyists and professionals, with art work being sold in galleries since 2005.

Source : wikipedia.org

Infrared Photography (part I)

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:20:49 +0000

In infrared photography, the film or image sensor used is sensitive to infrared light. The part of the spectrum used is referred to as near-infrared to distinguish it from far-infrared, which is the domain of thermal imaging. Wavelengths used for photography range from about 700 nm to about 900 nm. Usually an “infrared filter” is used; this lets infrared (IR) light pass through to the camera, but blocks all or most of the visible light spectrum (the filter thus looks black or deep red).

Photo Example :

Pic 1. Infrared photo : tree ; Pic 2. Visible photo : tree

When these filters are used together with infrared-sensitive film or sensors, very interesting “in-came ra effects” can be obtained; false-color or black-and-white images with a dreamlike or sometimes lurid appearance known as the “Wood Effect.”

The effect is mainly caused by foliage (such as tree leaves and grass) strongly reflecting in the same way visible light is reflected from snow. There is a small contribution from chlorophyll fluorescence, but this is extremely small and is not the real cause of the brightness seen in infrared photographs.

The other attributes of infrared photographs include very dark skies and penetration of atmospheric haze, caused by reduced Rayleigh scattering and Mie scattering, respectively, compared to visible light. The dark skies, in turn, result in less infrared light in shadows and dark reflections of those skies from water, and clouds will stand out strongly. These wavelengths also penetrate a few millimeters into skin and give a milky look to portraits, although eyes often look black.

Source : Wikipedia.org

Photography Basics

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:19:28 +0000

Whether you have been a photographer for decades or have just picked up your first camera, the basics are always good to review. Here you will find information on camera controls, photography lighting, composition (including the rule of thirds), and even color temperature.

Controls

While so many of today’s cameras try to do the thinking for photographers, to get really great images you need to know how to control your camera. You also need to know what controls affect what aspects of your photographs.

Composition

Composition simply means how your image is put together. The greatest subject in the world will not automatically make a great image. You have to know how (and where) to put that image on film.

Color

Color (or lack thereof) is essential in photography. Just like in real life, color can change the way we feel about a scene. Learning about color in photography ranges from color theory to knowing when the light looks golden.

Lighting

Ahhh, light. Photography is the art of capturing light on film (or digital surface). To really master photography we need to know about lighting.

source : about.com

Prolog (IR photography)

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 03:11:03 +0000

just enjoy my articles, i make this blog cause i love photography, love all kind of photography,
instead hobbies, fill the time in…and bla..bla..bla…

now i am starting to love infrared photography……

just enjoy this :

Hello world!

ladiesman147 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 02:55:48 +0000

Welcome to WordPress.com. This is your first post. Edit or delete it and start blogging!